Posted on December 1, 2014
The eternal kook
When I was in Bali – at surf camp, but not actually surfing a lot – I randomly found a copy of I-Magazine.
At first, I wasn’t entirely sure who the magazine was aimed at, as it labelled ‘surf issue’ and covered with a svelte model’s swimsuit-clad butt. (Lad’s mag or fashion mag? Hard to tell sometimes.)
Nevertheless, I picked it up, and found the most resonant piece of surf writing: An Angry Love Letter to all Kookdom.
I complain about perfection. You laugh at your failures. I am good at
this. You suck. And now I realize: I’m the one who’s got it wrong.
You had it right before you had it all. If only you could teach the rest of us all that you don’t know yet.
Now I embrace my destiny; a surfer who will probably never shred, but probably always suck a bit.
Yes, I am the eternal kook.
Getting better just makes it worse.
Much, much worse.